2/20/2023 0 Comments Tru oil cure time![]() The good news is that these thin coats dry very quickly, and if you screw it up you can try it again in about an hour. I also work the stock very strategically and sequentially so I work from the "wet" end of one area into new area avoiding any over lap with areas that are now tacky. I normally allow about an hour between coats and then let it cure over night every 3rd or 4th coat before taking it back down with steel wool.Īfter 3-4 days of that i'm ready to do a "finish" coat, taking extra care to wipe dow the stock with a damp lint free cloth and tack cloth, working in a dust free space with clean hands and then very lightly apply the tru-oil spreading a very small drop on the end of my finger over a fairly large area. (Just use a light touch and fresh steel wool to keep things flat and not create any gouges or thin spots). The longer you wait the better the finish sands, and being that you're using a baked maple you're talking about low porosity/absorption, so you may very well get by with 3 or 4 coats.The first few coats I don't worry about much as I knock almost all of it back off with 0000 steel wool, going almost all the way back to the wood. Here's a shot of a speaker I just veneered and finished with Tru-oil, before & after: The longer you wait the better the finish sands, and being that you're using a baked maple you're talking about low porosity/absorption, so you may very well get by with 3 or 4 coats. You'll want to make sure you shield the frets while sanding the oil, because they will spoil the fret finish, assuming that you're satisfied with Warmoth's final fret work.Īll my Warmoth necks have stainless steel, and they needed nothing further. I would strongly suggest getting hold of a bunch of 3M Scotchbrite pads of varying grit grades. As long as you're in an area of the country where it's not too humid it will be even easier, and a bit faster. More thinner coats, wiped well after each application ESPECIALLY ALONG THE FRETS EDGES will pay big dividends. In your particular situation you can use it all over the neck & fingerboard, but you need to be very, very patient. I did 3 coats over white oak veneer that I applied. ![]() I am in the process of refurbishing a pair of beat-up Klipsch Heresy speakers c.1985, and I did the finish with Tru-oil. ![]() ![]() I have used Tru Oil on the rest of the neck, and it's fairly 'idiot proof'. I only use necks with Rosewood fingerboards, so I don't finish them. ![]()
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